The End

When I land at JFK in one week, London will be an ocean away…

Then “take away” will turn into “take out”, no tip will turn into 10-20%, and real cask ale will turn into whatever frigid lager is on tap. Noshing my way through London and Europe has been unforgettable. So many cultures, so many foods, so many memories and ideas that will come with me right back to NYC. Like cooking an actual Sunday roast with a British grandmother, making a wish on my first mince pie of the season, finding advent calendars (which is near impossible in the states sometimes), finding hidden gardens with a Parisian, eating the soggy Turkish hamburger that Anthony Bourdain ate, having Venetians walk my lost soul to my hostel, and so much more. I know I can use these little tidbits of culture somewhere in my future in the restaurant business whether to bring the awe of new experiences or the warmth of European hospitality. I hope this blog has given you a glimpse of both.

And throughout all my travels, it was so nice coming back to London and feeling like I was home. I’ve become used to the weight of pound coins in my purse and looking the other direction when I cross.  I don’t think I got anywhere close to the tip of the iceberg in London but in some ways I’m glad, because now I have the perfect excuse to come back.

Again, many thanks to Banco Santander for the scholarship that made this whole experience possible.

Cheers!

Fall Break Food!

During my fall break I was fortunate enough to travel to three countries and experience completely different  cultures and foods. From Copenhagen, Denmark to Athens, Greece to Istanbul, Turkey, every country was a gastronomic adventure.

 Although I didn't find any danishes in Denmark, the other pastries were just as wonderful and perfect for a light breakfast. After becoming used to full English breakfasts and full American continental breakfasts, the morning customs of certain countries was definitely a surprise. It may be smart to research what daily meals are like in other countries and when they are as well. Sometimes restaurants will close midday for a siesta or even be open as late as 2am, whatever follows the local custom.

Laks smørrebrød 

 From the hot dog to the smørrebrød, or open faced sandwich, Danish food was light and balanced flavors beautifully.

Octopus with oil and vinegar

 Try to find tiny little mom-and-pop places where the service will be like family and the food will be just like your nonexistent Greek grandmother would make. At this hole in the wall, the owner welcomed us with ouzo on the house and even dessert and coffee after the meal. The food was simple, with traditional Greek flavors really shining through. 

Greek yogurt with honey, bananas, and hazelnuts

 Possibly the most tortuous food picture I took on the trip. Fresh, thick, and creamy Greek yogurt was an eyeopening experience. 

Simet

Street food is also a good way to save money while traveling abroad. Usually filling and cheap, street food like the sesame seed-covered simet above can keep you going throughout the day as you ramble around the city.

Fish sandwich from Galata Bridge

Traveling abroad has revealed to me some of the freshest, delicious food nowhere near a white china plate. For example, the fish in this sandwich was caught off the Galata Bridge ten feet away from rocking boats where men griddled them to a crisp. Bones and all, served with a bit of lime juice and salt, the fish was unbeatable.

 Along the way you're bound to find some interesting interpretations of western food. This soggy pile of dipped hamburgers was featured on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations so of course I had to try one. Every soggy bite was absolutely delicious, like a soft White Castle burger dipped in taco sauce. Questionable? Yes. Delicious? Even more yes. Sometimes you just won't know what's going on in your food but if you see locals digging in then it may be worth a try. 

But...a little bit of pepto bismol packed away doesn't do any harm.

Börek

Baklava (from a box of 4 to a box of 10 in a matter of hours...)

Prepare to find foods that you'll love so much that your consumption will turn exponential...

Between Athens to Istanbul I am pretty sure I consumed nearly 50 pieces of baklava. Crisp, juicy, nutty...perfectly addictive.

Ayran

...and for things you won't like one bit!

In Istanbul I got to try ayran, an unsweetened yogurt drink that is sometimes salted. While it was definitely good for muting spices, ayran tastes seriously like yogurt. Straight out of the animal yogurt, none of that Yoplait stuff.

Homesickness

One more month left in London and the homesickness is really starting to set in. I've only barely experienced the tip of the iceberg that is the London restaurant scene and yet images of dirty water dogs and chicken & rice have been wafting through my dreams. Here are some suitable replacements to stave of the pangs of nostalgia hunger during this final stretch.

From seriouseats.com

1. Shake Shack burgers -> Byron burgers

There's nothing more American than a franchise burger. In NYC, most would say the representative burger is the Shake Shack burger. Among the many burger substitutes to be found in London, one higher end burger chain, Byron Burger, has become an oasis in the desert for me. Juicy, flavorful, and with NYC prices to boot (sigh).

From cdn.opinsy.com

2.  Everything bagels with cream cheese ->  Marmite & cheddar butty

Okay, I admit that comparing cream cheese and Marmite is like comparing apples and donkeys. Marmite, a poorly described "yeast spread", is a favorite of many Brits (and Aussies as well). Pungently salty to say the least, the spread is a love-hate affair. At first taste, I ended up raking the spread off my tongue but when placed in a toasted sandwich with sharp cheddar cheese....it was actually alright. Delicious actually. A filling breakfast sandwich that is just as regional as NYC's everything bagels with cream cheese.

From thearmoury.me.uk

3. Soul food -> Pub grub
Rich, hearty, stick to ribs food can be found in nearly all cultures. The transition from Harlem soul food to London pub grub was not a hard one.

From guestofaguest.com

4. Speakeasy mixology bars -> Speakeasy mixology bars!

Although it may be hard to find some of your NYC favorites here in London, when it comes to mixology bars you should have no problems. London is home to some of the world's best mixologists. Whether they will be as hipster and moustachioed as those in Manhattan, that part isn't guaranteed, but they can all mix you a refreshing respite from beer. In fact, one of the top private mixology membership bars in NYC, Milk & Honey, has a twin bar right here in London. And you can actually call the London Milk & Honey for a reservation instead of sending an email.

London, unsung hero of fine dining

Before I learned a thing or two about London, one of the much undeserved cliches bouncing around my head was: British food sucks.

It does not.

So, on the other side of the spectrum from last week's post on cheap eats, I am featuring a bit of fine dining which showcases the soul and sophistication of British cooking. The following three unbelievably talented British chefs  are trailblazers on the global culinary stage and are only a few of the many British chefs who defy any notion that British food is bland.

Photo from eatmedaily.com

1. Marco Pierre White

Always associated with a sense of rock-n-roll, Marco Pierre White breathed new life and revolutionized British gastronomy. Known as the legendary enfant terrible of the British culinary world, White challenged all that was proper (and French!) and paved the way for modern cooking not just in the UK but in the international culinary scene as well. White was the youngest and first British chef to receive three stars from the Michelin Guide not that he particularly cared for their judgment. He has also trained many renown chefs such as Gordon Ramsey, no small feat in my eyes. Currently retired, he is a restaurateur involved with restaurants such as Marco Restaurant, Wheeler's of St. James, and King's Road Steakhouse and Grill.

Photo from theguardian.com

2. Heston Blumenthal

Perhaps Heston Blumenthal's awkward smile belies the inner geek in him as he is one of the world's most scientific chefs. Blumenthal is one of the bastions of molecular gastronomy which include Ferran Adria and Thomas Keller. His Michelin starred and internationally acclaimed restaurant, the Fat Duck, is mentioned with the same awe as El Bulli and the French Laundry. Greatly influenced by British culinary history, Blumenthal creates inconceivable interpretations of traditional recipes using aspects of chemistry previously unheard of in the kitchen. One of his signature creations is the meat fruit which is his answer to the medieval belief that fruits and vegetables were dangerous to eat raw.

Photo from nytimes.com

3. Fergus Henderson

Head chef and owner of St. John in Smithfield, London, Fergus Henderson champions nose-to-tail cooking that optimizes traditional British cuisine. Nose-to-tail cooking leaves nothing to waste and literally uses every part of the animal, like offal and blood. When asked to explain the philosophy behind his cooking Henderson said, "it seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it. Rather than being testosterone-fuelled blood-lust, it actually seems to be a gentle approach to meat eating". Many of his recipes go back to old, traditional recipes from a time when every little bit of an animal was eaten and not wasted. His restaurant, praised by the likes of Anthony Bourdain and Mario Batali, may not seem like a posh affair but it's not-so-new innovative philosophy has stirred up a cult following and pushed St. John into British stardom.

5 Tips for Eating on a Budget

 After traveling around Europe and Asia, I realize prices here are no joke. I thought NYC would have prepared me but at times I find London food prices even harder to navigate.
So, here are 5 tips for a full stomach and wallet in London!

Bangers and mash

1. Eat pub grub.

There is no end to my pub preaching. Pubs are the best source for cheap favorites like bangers & mash, a full English breakfast, and also lunch/dinner deals that include a nice pint. Want something more take away? Look no further than your neighborhood chippy or pie shop. Fish & chips and savory pies are historic cheap eats that have stuck around for a good reason!

Locally sourced sausage with mustard and barbecue sauce

2. Eat at a market.

The local farmers' market like Bloomsbury Farmers' Market and sprawling food epicenters like Borough Market offer dozens of different, affordable bites. Not to mention my favorite, "free sample"-grazing, which can be filling enough by itself.

Jerk chicken meal

3. Eat ethnic.

As I've mentioned before, London is a global city. And luckily, most of these ethnic restaurants are high in flavor and low in prices. Just a few blocks from NYUL campus is Chinatown which is packed full of not only Chinese cuisine but Korean, Japanese, Malaysian, and much more. It is more than easy to get a meal for under 10 quid at a Chinatown restaurant. For Indian cuisine, try Brick Lane.

Picture from mysupermarket.co.uk

4. Eat supermarket food.

One of the first things I ever noticed about London were the shelves and shelves of pre-packaged meals in supermarkets. While I've always felt that there was a stigma attached to such ready-to-eat meals, that is definitely not the case here in the UK. The selections (which can vary from supermarket to supermarket) are vast and diverse, spanning from piri piri chicken sandwiches to shepherd's pie. And most importantly, they are changed daily to ensure freshness. Some markets even have meal deals where you can add a drink and small side for a smidgen more.

5. Eat here, here, and here!

In general, Time Out London is a reliable source for restaurant recommendations in the city. Their cheap eats section/pages are a gift from the foodie gods since the recommendations come from some the best eaters in the city. My favorite banh mi place, Banh Mi Bay, tops the list!

Afternoon Tea at The Dorchester

The Dorchester.

Earl grey tea

This week's post is a little bit of London right before I jet off for fall break!

Although tea has already been featured on this blog, this tea time is in a class all its own.

Afternoon tea at The Dorchester is one of the more posh tea services in London along the likes of The Ritz or Fortnum & Mason. Although it costs a pretty penny, afternoon tea here is an unforgettable, luxurious experience that really encompasses the peaceful aura of tea time. For two full hours, you are treated to a perpetual stream of savories, sweets, and tea that will leave you in a completely dream-like food coma.

Smoked salmon, chopped egg, and seafood finger sandwiches

Chicken and cucumber finger sandwiches

From the moment you sink into the plush cushions of your seat to the moment you (try) to stand, the delectable tea treats do not end. The bread used in finger sandwiches is of great importance; it should compliment the textures and flavors of whatever rests inside. Each sandwich at The Dorchester had its own personality yet the flavors were still light on the palate.

Chocolate-coffee mousse in a chocolate cup

A truly amusing amuse bouche that toyed with the idea of coffee during afternoon tea. 

Raisin scone with clotted cream and jam

And of course, tea is not tea without its scones. Quaint little scones that had bursts of sweet raisin to add to the sweet jam and marmalade.

A rainbow of sweets

A raspberry macaron, passion fruit-coconut cake, strawberry tart, apricot financier, and mint chocolate tart finished afternoon tea with just as much flavor and variety as the finger sandwiches. But even beyond the superb food and service, the atmosphere at The Dorchester is magical. A live pianist softly singing to his own music, the clink of teacups on saucers, the quiet chatter amongst tables...they all make afternoon tea a little vacation or escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

First time on the continent: Barcelona, Spain

Bienvenidos a Barcelona!

Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, is an autonomous region in Spain with a unique history and culture all its own. It's influence on fashion, food, commerce, arts, and more goes without saying. While it is impossible for me to convey the warmth of the Barcelona people or the impact of Gaudi, here are (quite) a few snapshots from my first trip there!

 Right next to the water, Barcelona has some amazing seafood that should not be missed. The fried squid in batter were so tender that I almost couldn't tell I was chewing on something. The juices of squid, langoustine, shrimp, and mussel cooked into the rice of the paella, making every bite taste of the sea.

 I also stumbled upon a newfangled, one-of-a-kind ice cream concept right on the docks: Eyescream and Friends. Opened this past September, Eyescream and Friends is a small, well designed shop selling shaved gelato. Gelato is not hard to come by in Barcelona, but this concept takes cylinders of gelato frozen at -25º C and shaves it into ribbons of silky, intensely flavored gelato with a special Japanese contraption. The texture is smooth yet icy, adding a bit of lightness to the gelato. Add two googly eyes and you have the most delectable little creature in all of Barcelona.

Various toppings both creamy and fruity

Yogurt shaved gelato with strawberry and condensed milk topping

 To experience a culture is to eat every daily meal "in their shoes".

Breakfast in Barcelona is a very casual affair, starting with cafe con leche (coffee with milk) and a pastry. After drinking gallons of tea here in London, the coffee seemed strong even with milk! Pastry-wise, I spent most of my mornings on a quest to find xiuxos ("choochos") which are flaky butter pastries filled with custard then covered in sugar. Interestingly enough, churros con chocolate is not that common here.

Xiuxo

A hidden creamy, refreshing custard interior

 While La Boqueria is on every tourist's list, that does not diminish the awe evoked by the breathtaking variety inside. Every corner of the food pyramid, even ones you never even knew about, overflows from the stands in this open air market. Ask for a sample, ask for two, La Boqueria is a grand celebration of abundance meant to be enjoyed fully.

 Once you overcome your visual food coma, stop by a stand with cured meats for a piece of jamon iberico de bellota. This ham is made from the legs of pata negra (black pigs) who are allowed to graze free and eat only acorns for the last few months of their lives. The result is a distinct, nutty, fatty ham that goes for over $100/lb. in the states!

A honey and cheese market in Barri Gotic or the Gothic Quarter

 And of course you can't have a trip to Spain without tapas. While not the tapas capital of Spain, Barcelona offers its own tapas or pintxos with a Catalana twist. 

Anxoves de l'Escala

 Canned seafood is considered a culinary delight contrary to popular belief. The quality and flavor of canned seafood in Barcelona is undeniable. Here, canning is just another form of "cooking" or food preparation to preserve flavor and add a new dimension to plentiful fresh seafood.

Bombe de carn picantetes

Croquettes are also a popular tapas item.

Patatas bravas

 Patatas bravas are chunks of beautifully fried potato served with a garlic aioli. 

Pa amb tomaquet

 These nondescript pieces of bread are part of a regional dish found in every nook and cranny of Barcelona. Pa amb tomaquet is bread rubbed with tomato and seasoned with fruity olive oil, salt and sometimes garlic. Served alongside other heftier foodstuffs like charcuterie and fish, pa amb tomaquet balances flavors and cleanses the palate quite naturally.

Plat d'Embotit

Some of the most flavorful cured/smoked sausages and charcuterie come out of Spain. Think chorizo!

And of course no visit to Barcelona is complete without some of Gaudi's stunning works.