London, unsung hero of fine dining

Before I learned a thing or two about London, one of the much undeserved cliches bouncing around my head was: British food sucks.

It does not.

So, on the other side of the spectrum from last week's post on cheap eats, I am featuring a bit of fine dining which showcases the soul and sophistication of British cooking. The following three unbelievably talented British chefs  are trailblazers on the global culinary stage and are only a few of the many British chefs who defy any notion that British food is bland.

Photo from eatmedaily.com

1. Marco Pierre White

Always associated with a sense of rock-n-roll, Marco Pierre White breathed new life and revolutionized British gastronomy. Known as the legendary enfant terrible of the British culinary world, White challenged all that was proper (and French!) and paved the way for modern cooking not just in the UK but in the international culinary scene as well. White was the youngest and first British chef to receive three stars from the Michelin Guide not that he particularly cared for their judgment. He has also trained many renown chefs such as Gordon Ramsey, no small feat in my eyes. Currently retired, he is a restaurateur involved with restaurants such as Marco Restaurant, Wheeler's of St. James, and King's Road Steakhouse and Grill.

Photo from theguardian.com

2. Heston Blumenthal

Perhaps Heston Blumenthal's awkward smile belies the inner geek in him as he is one of the world's most scientific chefs. Blumenthal is one of the bastions of molecular gastronomy which include Ferran Adria and Thomas Keller. His Michelin starred and internationally acclaimed restaurant, the Fat Duck, is mentioned with the same awe as El Bulli and the French Laundry. Greatly influenced by British culinary history, Blumenthal creates inconceivable interpretations of traditional recipes using aspects of chemistry previously unheard of in the kitchen. One of his signature creations is the meat fruit which is his answer to the medieval belief that fruits and vegetables were dangerous to eat raw.

Photo from nytimes.com

3. Fergus Henderson

Head chef and owner of St. John in Smithfield, London, Fergus Henderson champions nose-to-tail cooking that optimizes traditional British cuisine. Nose-to-tail cooking leaves nothing to waste and literally uses every part of the animal, like offal and blood. When asked to explain the philosophy behind his cooking Henderson said, "it seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it. Rather than being testosterone-fuelled blood-lust, it actually seems to be a gentle approach to meat eating". Many of his recipes go back to old, traditional recipes from a time when every little bit of an animal was eaten and not wasted. His restaurant, praised by the likes of Anthony Bourdain and Mario Batali, may not seem like a posh affair but it's not-so-new innovative philosophy has stirred up a cult following and pushed St. John into British stardom.

5 Tips for Eating on a Budget

 After traveling around Europe and Asia, I realize prices here are no joke. I thought NYC would have prepared me but at times I find London food prices even harder to navigate.
So, here are 5 tips for a full stomach and wallet in London!

Bangers and mash

1. Eat pub grub.

There is no end to my pub preaching. Pubs are the best source for cheap favorites like bangers & mash, a full English breakfast, and also lunch/dinner deals that include a nice pint. Want something more take away? Look no further than your neighborhood chippy or pie shop. Fish & chips and savory pies are historic cheap eats that have stuck around for a good reason!

Locally sourced sausage with mustard and barbecue sauce

2. Eat at a market.

The local farmers' market like Bloomsbury Farmers' Market and sprawling food epicenters like Borough Market offer dozens of different, affordable bites. Not to mention my favorite, "free sample"-grazing, which can be filling enough by itself.

Jerk chicken meal

3. Eat ethnic.

As I've mentioned before, London is a global city. And luckily, most of these ethnic restaurants are high in flavor and low in prices. Just a few blocks from NYUL campus is Chinatown which is packed full of not only Chinese cuisine but Korean, Japanese, Malaysian, and much more. It is more than easy to get a meal for under 10 quid at a Chinatown restaurant. For Indian cuisine, try Brick Lane.

Picture from mysupermarket.co.uk

4. Eat supermarket food.

One of the first things I ever noticed about London were the shelves and shelves of pre-packaged meals in supermarkets. While I've always felt that there was a stigma attached to such ready-to-eat meals, that is definitely not the case here in the UK. The selections (which can vary from supermarket to supermarket) are vast and diverse, spanning from piri piri chicken sandwiches to shepherd's pie. And most importantly, they are changed daily to ensure freshness. Some markets even have meal deals where you can add a drink and small side for a smidgen more.

5. Eat here, here, and here!

In general, Time Out London is a reliable source for restaurant recommendations in the city. Their cheap eats section/pages are a gift from the foodie gods since the recommendations come from some the best eaters in the city. My favorite banh mi place, Banh Mi Bay, tops the list!

Afternoon Tea at The Dorchester

The Dorchester.

Earl grey tea

This week's post is a little bit of London right before I jet off for fall break!

Although tea has already been featured on this blog, this tea time is in a class all its own.

Afternoon tea at The Dorchester is one of the more posh tea services in London along the likes of The Ritz or Fortnum & Mason. Although it costs a pretty penny, afternoon tea here is an unforgettable, luxurious experience that really encompasses the peaceful aura of tea time. For two full hours, you are treated to a perpetual stream of savories, sweets, and tea that will leave you in a completely dream-like food coma.

Smoked salmon, chopped egg, and seafood finger sandwiches

Chicken and cucumber finger sandwiches

From the moment you sink into the plush cushions of your seat to the moment you (try) to stand, the delectable tea treats do not end. The bread used in finger sandwiches is of great importance; it should compliment the textures and flavors of whatever rests inside. Each sandwich at The Dorchester had its own personality yet the flavors were still light on the palate.

Chocolate-coffee mousse in a chocolate cup

A truly amusing amuse bouche that toyed with the idea of coffee during afternoon tea. 

Raisin scone with clotted cream and jam

And of course, tea is not tea without its scones. Quaint little scones that had bursts of sweet raisin to add to the sweet jam and marmalade.

A rainbow of sweets

A raspberry macaron, passion fruit-coconut cake, strawberry tart, apricot financier, and mint chocolate tart finished afternoon tea with just as much flavor and variety as the finger sandwiches. But even beyond the superb food and service, the atmosphere at The Dorchester is magical. A live pianist softly singing to his own music, the clink of teacups on saucers, the quiet chatter amongst tables...they all make afternoon tea a little vacation or escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

London, a global city

Although I've been seriously touting British beers, pies, roasts, and teas, London is a truly global city with the culinary diversity to prove it. As stated by the Foreign Secretary, Britain's national dish is chicken tikka masala!
The whole city has just as many Indian, Chinese, Korean, etc. restaurants as it does pubs, you just have to look in the right place. Just a few minutes from campus is Chinatown with just as much bubble tea and cheap, delicious Chinese delicacies as you want; just a few stops away Brick Lane is still the epicenter of Indian cuisine in London. (And even though it's not on here, Nando's Portuguese piri-piri chicken put all the chains back home to shame.) Stumble upon neighborhoods of ethnic restaurants and it feels just like NYC. You know you miss your curry, soup dumplings, ramen, and falafel.

Nasi lemak

According to my Singaporean/Londoner friend, Rasa Sayang is the place to go for Singaporean/Malaysian food. The prices are a breather, the dishes are colorful, the chilies on the menu actually mean spicy, and the service is exactly what you pay for.
Take the nasi lemak, rice cooked in coconut milk served with curried chicken, peanuts, pickled vegetables, anchovies, sambal, and a hard boiled egg. The dish has spice but all of the accompaniments tone down the heat and make each bite unpredictable.

Seafood Mee Goreng

With a nearly equal seafood to stir-fried noodles ratio in the seafood mee goreng, it is the best bang for your buck (or ping for your pound?). And there's no "mystery seafood" here thank goodness. The huge stalks of bok choy though...

Seafood Mee Goreng

Although only one or two chilies are peeking out in the pictures, the sauce has a slowly building heat that is just as delicious as it is painful.

Cin Cau (chin chow) Soya

Sweet soy milk with grass jelly. 

Grass jelly is a popular drink topping in Southeast Asia although, personally, it's not my favorite. It doesn't actually taste like grass (unlike grass-flavored Bertie Bott's Every Flavour Beans) but has more of a slightly sweet herbal taste.

Kadu puri

One day I managed to stumble upon the popular Punjab, a North Indian restaurant with innuendo laden menus, rich food and great service. While on the pricier side, it is well worth it. Make sure to get the kadu puri (soft spiced pumpkin on crispy puri bread) and read every line of their menu.

Paneer makhani

Naan with garlic naan underneath

Lamb madras

Papadum

Papadum, similar to crackers, are unusually addictive, crunchy and eaten with...

...chutneys, chopped vegetables, and other dips.

A bath at Bath

A bite of Bath, England!

This past weekend my roommate and I had a relaxing respite in Bath, one of the loveliest cities in England. The city is known for its picturesque architecture like the Georgian Circus, "Aquae Sulis" or the Roman baths for which it is named, the Jane Austen Centre, and many more museums. And then there is the modern Thermae Bath Spa; after all, who could give up taking a bath in Bath?

I strongly suggest visiting Thermae Bath Spa to immerse yourself in the namesake of Bath.

For a reasonable price, take a dip in their steam rooms, indoor thermal bath, or outdoor rooftop pool and enjoy a modern version of the ancient Roman tradition.

Sally Lunn's Tea Room.

The Sally Lunn bun in scale

Sally Lunn bun with strawberry jam and clotted cream

 The Sally Lunn bun, made to be one of the Bath's greatest secret recipes....is overwhelmingly underwhelming. Being the size of your face, Sally Lunn buns are thankfully served in halves, toasted, and buttered with a topping of your choice, sweet or savory. The bun has no unique flavor, texture, anything and not for lack of trying. Put plainly, it is a mutant, round slice of white bread.
Round things are fun to eat I suppose...and the pliant bun does have a pleasant crunchiness when toasted.

Sally Lunn bun with chocolate butter

The Raven.

Raven Ale and Stowford Press Cider

Although it is easy to miss the entrance to the Raven, it would be a dear shame if you did. Set on a quiet cobblestone side street, the family-owned, two-story pub serves some of the best pies and ale in Bath. The pub is usually a mix of locals and tourists, testament to the delicious pies, and yet the crowd is not rowdy or strobbing with camera flashes. The Raven is another pub that pours real ale.

Fungi Chicken Pie with chips and Guinness & red onion gravy

The Raven proudly serves pies by Pieminister, a company well known for its pies made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The Fungi Chicken Pie is made with free range British chicken, chestnut and field mushrooms cooked in a creamy white sauce.

Raven Ale Pie with mash and Guinness & red onion gravy

The specially made Raven Ale Pie is made with West Country beef, onions, carrots, Raven Ale, green peppercorns, and thyme. To eat a Pieminister pie served piping hot is an act of cheerful masochism.

 Bridge Coffee Shop.

Another piece of Georgian architecture, the Pulteney Bridge is one of the few bridges in the world that has shops on both sides. In fact, it makes it pretty hard to tell if you're actually on a bridge in the first place.
Of all of the tea services in Bath, the simple £5 cream tea at the Bridge Coffee Shop takes the cake. The small cafe has the best view in town with windows that overlook the River Avon and parks on each side.

The cream tea is served with curiously soft, cake-like scones flecked with cinnamon, clotted cream, strawberry jam, and house tea.

Since coming to the UK, I've had more tea than I've had in my life so far.

The Marquis Cornwillis

The Marquis Cornwallis.

Bloomsbury, London.

Taps on taps on taps

The Marquis Cornwallis is my British McLaren's.

This neighborhood pub is less than 5 minutes away from home and always bustling with a crowd of all (legal) ages. It is charmingly traditional to the point of being cliche, but being in London, the cliche is now reality. The worn wooden floors, little British flags, fireplace, and cozy furniture are not an act. While the whole standing-and-drinking custom took a little getting used to, drinking the Marquis Cornwallis has become quite dear to my heart.
Although its been stereotyped and over analyzed for ages, pub culture is truly at the heart of British life. Pubs are where you go to socialize with friends, relax after work, get belligerent over football, conduct business matters, and grab a bite to eat. Pubs are not pretentious, bouncer guarded places where you see girls teeter in on six inch heels. They are welcoming or fiercely tight knit communities, there to share their daily lives over a pint or two. As my friend says, pubs are places to drink and be yourself with friends, not get "pissed" and pretend you are something you're not. Fun fact: pub is short for "public house" and pub owners are called "publicans".

Sambrook's Brewery Wandle Ale and Pipps Cross Cider

British pubs have a wide selection of ales, bitters, lagers, stouts, ciders, and more. Bitters, a British style of beer, seem to be the beer of choice, but ales and lagers hold their ground at the taps as well. 

Some ales, in lieu of serving them ice cold, are served only a bit colder than room temperature to let the deeper flavors come through. "Real ales" go through a secondary fermentation in the cask to produce more flavors and are often hand-pulled from the cask with no extra pressurized gas, only natural carbonation. 

Then there is cider. Cider is not a beer because it is made of fermented fruit juice, often apple. And despite being on the sweeter side, cider can sneak up on you with up to 8.5% ABV. 

What you drink is entirely your choice.

Camden Hell Lager 

So, can I just take a seat and order a drink for myself?

Nope. While there's no hard and fast rules written down, there is some unspoken pub etiquette:

Here you order/pay for drinks at the bar and make sure to wait your turn!

Mixed drinks are highly unusual and beers are ordered as half pints or pints. But be aware, British pints are 20 fl oz., a bit more filling than the American 16 fl oz. 

Also, all those nights spending $18 on a cocktail + tip are over, do not tip at British pubs! 

And when with friends, it is common to buy in rounds. Once a round is finished, the next round is on another friend. If you can't afford to buy a whole round, don't be an arse and sneak off, just offer to buy your own drink.

Feel free to strike up a conversation at the bar. It's a perfectly normal way to chat up strangers!

Chips with malt vinegar and ketchup

I love you 'Murrica but your buffalo wingz and blue cheese has got to go. 

The pub grub here, ranging from fish and chips to scotch eggs to bangers and mash, is spot on.

Not your usual gin and tonic: a double shot of gin and Orchard Pig Very Berried sparkling juice.

Brits take casual drinking to another level. Here's some cheery folks on a Tuesday night!

Drinking may be the main attraction of pubs but come Sunday afternoon...

...a pub is the best spot for a Sunday roast. 

Venture upstairs at the Marquis Cornwallis for even more taps, a hodgepodge of mismatched tables, and a warm, cozy atmosphere for a Sunday roast.

Definitely more character than the neighborhood TGI Fridays.

Roast leg of Cotswald lamb, cut from the bone

A Sunday roast is a quintessential British meal comprised of roast meat, vegetables, Yorkshire pudding, potatoes, and more. The Marquis Cornwallis does a proper Sunday roast with beef, lamb, chicken, and even a nut roast. As per tradition, the roasts are served with roast seasonal vegetables, baby roast potatoes, gravy, and homemade Yorkshire pudding. Not pudding-like at all, Yorkshire pudding is a simple batter baked into a puffy, soft bread. Originally baked in the roast's drippings and served as a filler, Yorkshire pudding is well suited for sopping up any escaped gravy that is sacrilegious to waste. 

Roast 21 day aged, West Country beef

 The usual "tender" or "melt in your mouth" adjectives do not do their roast beef any justice, even though it cuts like butter. Although aged for 21 days, the roast does not have the usual dry aged funk but rather hearty beef flavor and fattiness. Pub on a plate, all the flavors combine like a haphazard Thanksgiving meal but with a distinctly British feel.

Looming Yorkshire pudding and delectable baby roast potato minions

The roasts may be superb but the sides really steal the show. The crisp, buttery Yorkshire pudding and browned baby roast potatoes with baked potato interiors are good enough on their own. 

Roast accompaniments: horseradish & cream, English mustard, mint jelly, apple & sage jelly

Every Sunday roast can find its soul mate in these four customary accompaniments. Horseradish & cream for roast beef, mustard for ham, mint jelly for lamb, and apple & sage jelly for pork.
Although not traditional, roast beef and apple & sage jelly makes for a Thanksgiving-like combo.

More Orchard Pig! Totally Minted pink grapefruit, mint, and lime drink

 Some effervescent British drink that will make you pucker.

Sticky toffee pudding with vanilla pod ice cream

 Sticking with the traditional theme, the sticky toffee pudding comes out steaming in a pool of toffee sauce mixed with vanilla bean ice cream. Almost too rich, each bite has chopped date pieces and a moist sponge cake nearly melting into the toffee.

Strawberry and raspberry Eton mess

 Sunday roast finished with my favorite dessert, the Eton mess. Classically British, the Eton mess is a mish mosh of macerated berries, broken meringue, and whipped cream. After a hefty meal, this dessert is light and summery with little crisp clouds of meringue and tart berry compote.