Goddards at Greenwich

Goddards at Greenwich.

Greenwich, London.

Pie and mash shops sell plates of a history that go all the way back to Victorian London. At the time, the famous Billingsgate Fish Market and the River Thames itself were teeming with eels and many people would sell fresh eels and eel pies from carts lining the banks. Born  from necessity before taste, the crust of savory pies kept dirt and germs away from the wetter filling. 

Later in the 19th century, the first brick-and-mortar shop opened and began to serve mash (or mashed potatoes) for a cheap, hot meal. These pie and mash shops were integral to the nutrition and sustenance of the poorer working classes. Later minced meat was used to fill the pies, first for luxury and then for economy as the price of eels surpassed that of beef.

Alfred Goddard opened the first pie and mash shop in Deptford, London in 1890. With his success, his family opened Goddards at Greenwich and has been serving traditional pie and mash with eels ever since. Since the modern palate doesn't exactly sing at the thought of eel pie, Goddards offers many different fillings both savory and sweet. Just be sure to avoid the barbershop around the corner...

Traditional minced beef pie with mash and liquor sauce.

 Pies are often served with gravy or liquor sauce. The latter actually has no liquor in it but is made from the gravy of stewed eels flavored and colored with parsley. Traditionally, pies are eaten with liquor sauce and copious amounts of chili/malt vinegar and salt.

The flaky pastry crust, mash, and liquor sauce make for the heartiest of meals but with surprisingly tame flavors. Jazzed up with a splash of chili vinegar, the delicate liquor sauce gets some much needed flavor and bite.